Updated patterns!

I'm in the process of updating my old patterns, particularly the bibs, to include charts. I'm rewriting some of the directions to make the patterns even easier and including alternative methods for beginning the bibs and for making the ties. Look for these patterns in the sidebar to see which ones have been added. It's a slow process, but eventually, they'll all be there!



Friday, October 28, 2011

The New England Koala

Remember the koala design I posted a few weeks ago?  Well, it's been pointed out to me that koalas don't have tails!  When I drew this design, as with all my designs, I didn't do any research, I just did the version that popped into my head.  (As a designer, I'm allowed to do that!)  However, I also don't want to offend the koala community, so I have performed a "tail-ectomy" and now, you can either knit my "New England" version of a koala or an anatomically correct one.  I've changed the pattern to include directions and charts for either one.  Thank you Maria for setting me straight.  (Maria lives in Australia, so she should know!)  All I can say, in my own defense, is that in nature there are always aberrations and that's what makes us all interesting!

Sunday, October 16, 2011

Birthday Bear

It's that time of year again when I turn a year older and you get a "present"!  I started posting a new pattern on my birthday a couple of years ago and I thought it was a great tradition to keep.  This year's pattern came about because I really didn't care for my first teddy bear pattern at all.  I wanted a different bear that had a little personality. Even though I finished it late last year, it seemed appropriate to wait and post it today, not only because it's my birthday, but also because President Teddy Roosevelt was also born in October.  As you may know, "Teddy" bears get their name from him.  You can google the story if you don't already know it.

So here's my "Ted E. Bear".  I hope you like him.  Thank you for all your loyal support, that's the best gift I could ever have!

Ted E. Bear



















Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

The pdf file contains a chart and can be found in the side bar or by clicking  here.
Size:  approximately 8" from neck edge to bottom and 7 ½" wide
Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton (approximately 98 yards) in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals.  If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool.  The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!   Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Army Tan.
Needles:        US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm  You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
                or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties
Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib.  One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties.  One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner.  If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso:  pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps.  You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row.  If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track.  This technique results in a nice smooth edge.
Cast on 37 stitches
Row 1:  k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (11 sts. unworked)
Row 2:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 17 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 3:  Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 20 sts.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 4:  Slip 1 knitwise; p1, k1 for 23 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 5:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 26 sts.; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 6:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 28 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 7:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 30 sts.; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 8:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 32 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 9:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 34 sts.; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 10:  Slip 1 knitwise; k1, p1 for 35 sts.
Row 11:  k1, p1 across row.
Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.
OR
Traditional Beginning

Pattern:  Cast on 15 sts.
Row 1:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 2:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (24 sts.)
Row 5:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (27 sts.)
Row 6:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (30 sts.)
Row 7:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (33 sts.)
Row 8:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (35 sts.)
Row 9:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (37 sts.)
Row 10:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 11:  k1, p1 across row.
* Row 12:  (k1, p1) x3; k2; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k2; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 13:  (k1, p1) x4; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5;  p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k21; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p19; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k19; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p17; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k17; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k2; p2; k5; p2; k2; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p2; k5; p2; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p9; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k11; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k3; p1; k3; p4; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; (p1, k3) x2; p1; (k3, p1) x2; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p3) x2; k1; (p3, k1) x2; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k2; p3; k2; p1; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p2; k3; p2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k7; p1; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k4; p5; k4; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k11; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; (k1, p3) x3; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p3; k11; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p11; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; (k4, p1) x2; k9; (p1, k4) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k7; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; (p5, k2) x2; p5; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k1; p5; k1; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p7; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 49:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k9; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 50:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k3; p11; k3; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 51:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 52:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 53:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 54:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 55:  (k1, p1) x5; k17; (p1, k1) x5.
Rows 56 – 62:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 63:   k1, p1 for 13 sts.  Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.



NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.
Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.
Neck decreases:
Row 65:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 66:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 67:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 69:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog.  (10 sts.)
Row 70:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 71:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (9 sts.)
Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 73:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (8 sts.)
Row 74:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 75:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (7 sts.)
Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 77:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (6 sts.)
Row 78:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 79:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (5 sts.)
Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p2 tog.  (3 sts.)
For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through.  Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches.  The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer.  When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning.  Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends.  I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog.  http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html  

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches.  Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.  Don't worry if the I-cords look a little wonky.  A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice!  A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:  http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips.   

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.  All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.
 Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.
Neck decreases:
Row 65:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (12 sts.)
Row 66:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 67:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (11 sts.)
Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.
Shoulder decreases:
Row 69:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (10 sts.)
Row 70:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 71:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (9 sts.)
Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 73:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (8 sts.)
Row 74:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 75:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (7 sts.)
Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 77:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (6 sts.)
Row 78:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 79:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso;  p1, k1 across row.  (5 sts.)
Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; p2tog.  (3 sts.)
Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.
Weave in ends.

Ted E. Bear Cloth

















Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!
The pdf file contains a chart and can be found in the sidebar or by clicking  here.
Size:  approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".
Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color (approximately 98 yards).  The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Butterscotch.
Needles:  U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm  Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out.  If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.
Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical. 
Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches
Pattern:  Cast on 37 sts. 
Rows 1 – 7:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 8:  (k1, p1) x3; k2; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k2; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 9:  (k1, p1) x4; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 10:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p5; k1; p9; k1; p5; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 11:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k5; p1; k9; p1; k5;  p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 12:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p21; k1; p2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 13:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k21; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p19; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k19; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 16: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p17; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k17; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p15; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k2; p2; k5; p2; k2; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p2; k5; p2; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p9; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k11; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k13; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k3; p1; k3; p4; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; (p1, k3) x2; p1; (k3, p1) x2; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; (k1, p3) x2; k1; (p3, k1) x2; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k2; p3; k2; p1; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; p2; k3; p2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k3; p1; k7; p1; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k4; p5; k4; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p13; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k11; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; (k1, p3) x3; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p3; k11; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; k1; p11; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39:  ((k1, p1) x2; (k4, p1) x2; k9; (p1, k4) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; p9; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k7; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; (p5, k2) x2; p5; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k5; p1; k1; p5; k1; p1; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p7; k1; p5; k1; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k3; p1; k9; p1; k3; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k3; p11; k3; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 48:  (k1, p1) x3; k1 p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 49:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 50:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 51:  (k1, p1) x5; k17; (p1, k1) x5.
Rows 52 - 58:  k1, p1 across row.
Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.

Monday, October 10, 2011

Make Way for Geese!

I came across this adorable pattern for a hat on Ravelry called Olga the Goose.  While I love it as a hat, I thought it would also make a cute soaker.














The pattern worked out perfectly for the number of stitches.  At first, I tried to knit it by stranding, but that was just a hot mess.  I ripped it out and decided the only way it was going to work was if I used a duplicate stitch.















Once I got going on it, it was actually a lot of fun to do.  I'm happy with the way it came out and so is my daughter-in-law, which is what really counts!

I used Cascade 220, all of which I found tucked away in my stash, which made this project even sweeter.  It's hard to come up with something cute for a little girl when I've only been knitting for boys the past eight years! 

Thursday, October 6, 2011

Do I detect a theme?

Well not really.  It started with the kangaroo which now has led to the koala.  It seems like there is a connection but I actually did the koala about two years ago.  I finally found the original chart and decided that it needed an overhaul, which meant whole new directions and testing.  I warn you right now that all the testing was done by me, so you all know what that means!  I did try very hard to pay attention and catch any errors.  This time around though, there is a chart included in the pdf file so you can double check me.  (Don't you love the "original" name of this pattern?)














And to Maria, who does live Down Under, I hope you'll like this well enough to include it in your special baby blanket!  I'll be watching for pictures!

Koala Cloth



















Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

The pdf file contains a chart and can be found in the sidebar or by clicking here.

Size:  approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color.  Approximately 98 yards. The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Silver Gray.

Needles:  U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm  Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out.  If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical. 

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern:

Cast on 37 stitches
Rows 1 – 7:  (k1, p1) across row.
*Row 8:  (wrong side) (k1, p1) x4; k1; p19; k1; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 9:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 10:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 11:  (k1, p1) x3; k7; p7; k1; p5; k5; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 12:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p5, k1) x2; (p7, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 13:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k15; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 14: (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p16; k4; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; (k3, p1) x2; k16; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p16; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; (k3, p1) x2; k8; p3; k5; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k3; p11; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k3; p1; k2; p2; k11; p1; k1; p3; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p11; k1; p1; k2; p3; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k11; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p11; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; (p1, k10) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k6; p8; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k13; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p14; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k14; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k2; (p8, k1) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k6; p1; k2; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p10; k7; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k7; p1; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p9; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k10; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p4; k3; p3; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k10; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k5; p4; k3; p3; k4; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k5; p1; k2; p1; k10; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p3; k1; p5; k1; p4; (k1, p3) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k10; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p4, k1) x2; p2; k1; p3; k1; p2; k1; p7; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k3; p1; k9; p1; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p9; k1; p8; k1; p3; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k6; p1; k4; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; p6; (k1, p4) x2; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k5; p2; k4; p1; k1; p1; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k5; p3; k4; p2; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p5; k20; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p27; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 49:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 50:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 51:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.
Rows 52 - 58: (k1, p1) across row.
Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.