Updated patterns!

I'm in the process of updating my old patterns, particularly the bibs, to include charts. I'm rewriting some of the directions to make the patterns even easier and including alternative methods for beginning the bibs and for making the ties. Look for these patterns in the sidebar to see which ones have been added. It's a slow process, but eventually, they'll all be there!



Tuesday, March 29, 2011

Yummy Mummy

Thank you, thank you, thank you to all of you for your nice comments and emails!  I'm thrilled to know so many of you have my back.  Rest assured that I'm not about to let this one person spoil my fun.  It's funny, but when I started this blog, I didn't want to post a public stat counter.  I was afraid I'd only have a couple of people and I'd be too embarrassed that just my friends and, possibly, my mother, were looking at it.  As it is, I now average 1,000 visitors a day!  Isn't that wild?  I can't believe it.  And for the record, my mother isn't one of them.  She still refers to this as my "blob".  Anyway, I appreciate each and every one of you!

On the knitting front, I thought I would post pictures of the handwarmers I made for my daughter-in-law.  This was one of those patterns that I always intended to knit "some day".  It's called "Yummy Mummy" and is free on Ravelry.  I tried to find a direct link but to no avail.
Emily's favorite color is brown and so I used Knitpicks Stroll in "Timber".  I have to say that I really like these.  They weren't very difficult, but I did have to pay attention!  Emily is tall so there's often a gap between the end of her coat and conventional gloves, so these are purposely long. 
I wasn't sure if she would like fingerless mitts, but it turns out that she does.  Since I had some Mini Mochi in the same colorway as her London hat, I decided to make her another pair.
This is just simple straight forward 2 X 2 ribbing.  The pattern was also on Ravelry and was called "Simple Handwarmers" or something like that.  The designer was Debbie Haymark.  These were much quicker to knit!  Good thing since they're also long.

I had just enough yarn left over from the brown mitts to knit a pair of socks for my youngest grandson.
This is the "Purl Bump" pattern from Kathleen Taylor's book "Big Book of Socks".  I love this pattern and the book!  My grandson loved the socks too and that's the only thing that really matters!

Monday, March 21, 2011

Ouch!

I’m still smarting from a recent comment left for one of my older patterns.  Apparently, this person, who I assume is a female, but I’m not sure, since he/she didn’t have the courtesy to leave his/her name, took issue that this particular pattern had a mistake.  So let me just make a few points directly to you:
1.      I’m a human, not a machine.  I don’t have a staff of knitters just a few good friends who help me out when they can.
2.     At the beginning of this blog, I explain this in my “Disclaimer”, which also clearly has my email address, should you have a problem.
3.     If there’s an error in a pattern, I always try to address it and post the correction. ( In this case, that’s exactly what happened.)
4.     If you were experiencing a problem, you should have just contacted me, instead of “wasting your time”.  I try to answer all questions promptly and nicely.
5.     At last count, 87 people on Ravelry alone have knit this bib and have not had a problem.
6.     I don’t have to share any patterns.  I do it for the few people who enjoy them and tell me.
7.     The patterns are free.
8.     If you are so unhappy, please go for your patterns elsewhere.  Seriously.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Billy the Kid and more!

I was looking on Ravelry the other day at my "designer" page and discovered that I have 70 designs posted there.  Technically, as far as designs go, there is half that many as the bib and the cloth are counted as separate patterns, as they should be.  Out of all those patterns, not one has ever had a chart, until now!!  This time I've included the chart with the pattern for all of you who have asked for them.  I had a crash course in charting (courtesy of my son) and you'll see I'm not very good at it.  Still, it's there and a giant step forward for me! 
Last year when I was working on designs for the 2011 calendar, I was on a country theme and this one was in the running, but lost out to the cow, the horse and the sheep!  I went around to everyone I knew and asked them to vote on which ones should be included in the calendar and, on some lists, the goat was number one.  It's not really one of your mainstream farm animals, I guess. 
One more word about the charts.  They're only included with the pdf files.  I haven't figured out how to get them pasted here.  Sorry! 

Thank you, thank you to all my test knitters for your patience in waiting for me to get this posted.  All of my testers are sworn to secrecy and they promise not to post pictures until I publish a pattern.  I'm very fortunate to have their loyalty.  Some of them have been waiting a long time to see this one, so I want to especially thank them for keeping their promises!!

Billy the Kid

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size:  approximately 8 ½ ” from neck edge to bottom and 8 " wide

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color such as Peaches & Crème or Sugar ‘n Cream if you are using the bib for meals.  If, on the other hand, you want to use it as a “drool” bib, I would recommend using a superwash wool.  The cotton has a tendency to absorb the moisture, whereas the superwash wool will wick the moisture and keep baby nice and dry!   Sample was done in Peaches & Crème Delft Blue.

Needles:        US 5/3.75 mm or 6/4.0mm  You want the bib to be fairly dense, so if the fabric is too loose, just drop down a needle size.

2 double pointed needles US 5/3.75 mm for the knitted I-cord ties
                or
Size G crochet hook for the crocheted ties

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical.


PATTERN NOTES
This pattern allows you to choose between two methods of beginning the bib.  One uses short rows and the other, more traditional way, requires you to cast on stitches at the beginning of the first few rows of the pattern. There are also two methods for doing the ties.  One has crocheted ties and the other method uses knitted I-cords. The crocheted ties are slightly thinner.  If you do make the knitted ties, you can drop down a needle size when knitting the cords. I like to run a long tail down the center of the cord to finish it off. Be sure to use a straight needle and not one with a bent tip!


Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
psso:  pass slipped stitch over
k2tog.= knit 2 stitches together
p2tog.=purl 2 stitches together
sts. = stitches
dec. = decrease
dpn. = double pointed needle

Short Row Version

For this method, you don’t have to wrap stitches or pick up wraps.  You just work the stitches to a point and turn your work around and start knitting in the opposite direction. I’ve written out every row for you and I’ve indicated how many stitches you should have remaining at the end of each row.  If you lose your count, all you have to do is check on the number of stitches you have left on your needle and you’ll be right back on track.  This technique results in a nice smooth edge.

Cast on 37 stitches
Row 1: (k1, p1) x13; turn (11 sts. unworked)
Row 2:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x8; k1.; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 3:  Slip 1 knitwise; (p1, k1) x10; turn (8 sts. unworked)
Row 4:  Slip 1 knitwise; (p1, k1) x11; p1; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 5:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x13; turn (5 sts. unworked)
Row 6:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x14; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 7:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x15; turn (3 sts. unworked)
Row 8:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x16; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 9:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x17; turn (1 sts. unworked)
Row 10:  Slip 1 knitwise; (k1, p1) x17; k1.
Row 11:  k1, p1, across row.
Continue with *Row 12 of pattern.
OR
Traditional Beginning

Pattern:  Cast on 15 sts.

Row 1:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 2:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (18 sts.)
Row 3:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row. (21 sts.)
Row 4:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (24 sts.)
Row 5:  Cast on 3 sts., p1, k1 across row.  (27 sts.)
Row 6:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (30 sts.)
Row 7:  Cast on 3 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (33 sts.)
Row 8:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (35 sts.)
Row 9:  Cast on 2 sts., k1, p1 across row.  (37 sts.)
Row 10:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 11:  k1, p1 across row.
*Row 12:  (k1, p1) x4; k1; p14; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 13:  (k1, p1) x4; k5; p1; k15; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 14:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p16; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 15:  (k1, p1) x3; k7; p1; k17; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p18; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17:   (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k7; p2; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k6; p1; k1; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k5; p1; k1; p6; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k2; p5; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; (p1, k4) x2; p1; k2; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p8; k1; p3; k1; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k13; p3; k8; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k23; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p18; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k16; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p15; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k13; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p13; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k12; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p12; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k11; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k2; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; (k8, p1, k2, p1) x2; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p3, k1) x2; p8; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k4; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p8; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k4; p1; k7; p1; k1; (p1, k3) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k4; p3; k1; p6; k2; p3; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; (p1, k2) x2; p6; k1; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; (k1, p2) x4; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p2; k3; (p1, k2) x3; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; (k1, p2) x3; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; (p1, k2) x3; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; (k1, p2) x3; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 49:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p2; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 50:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; (k1, p3) x2; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 51:  (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 52:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k3; p7; k2; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 53:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 54:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 55:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.
Rows 56 – 62:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 63:   k1, p1 for 13 sts.  Slip sts. just worked onto stitch holder, bind off the next 11 stitches knitwise; work across remaining sts. in established pattern: 13 stitches each side.

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – LEFT SHOULDER
Note: As you look at the bib with the right side facing, the first shoulder worked will be the left side. All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 65:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row. (12 sts.)
Row 66:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 67:   Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row. (11 sts.)
Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 69:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts, p2tog.  (10 sts.)
Row 70:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 71:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (9 sts.)
Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 73:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (8 sts.)
Row 74:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 75:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (7 sts.)
Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 77:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (6 sts.)
Row 78:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 79:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (5 sts.)
Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p2 tog.  (3 sts.)

For the crocheted ties, slip your crochet hook through the three stitches and draw your yarn through.  Then work a chain for about 12 - 14 inches.  The crocheted ties are not as stretchy as the knitted ones, so you might want to make these slightly longer.  When you reach the desired length, work back on the chain by inserting your hook in the second chain stitch nearest the end and slip stitch in each chain until you are back to the beginning.  Fasten the yarn securely and weave in the ends.  I have a “mini-tutorial” for making the crocheted ties on my blog.  http://downcloverlaine.blogspot.com/2010/05/ties-that-bind.html

For the knitted ties, slip these 3 sts. to a dpn work an I-cord for approximately 12 inches.  Fasten off and run end down through middle of I-cord.  Don't worry if the
I-cords look a little wonky.  A firm tug will usually straighten them out and after the bib is washed, you won't even notice!  A good tutorial for making the I-cords can be found here:  http://www.knittinghelp.com/videos/knitting-tips

NECK AND SHOULDER SHAPING – RIGHT SHOULDER
With wrong side facing, slip sts. from stitch holder to left needle and join yarn at neck edge.  All the decreases are made on right side or odd numbered rows.

 Row 64:  (wrong side) k1, p1 across row.

Neck decreases:
Row 65:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., p2tog.  (12 sts.)
Row 66:  p1, k1 across row.
Row 67:  k1, p1 across to last 2 sts., k2tog.  (11 sts.)
Row 68:  k1, p1 across row.

Shoulder decreases:
Row 69:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (10 sts.)
Row 70:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 71:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (9 sts.)
Row 72:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 73:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (8 sts.)
Row 74:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 75:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; p1, k1 across row.  (7 sts.)
Row 76:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 77:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1, p1 across row.  (6 sts.)
Row 78:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 79:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso;  p1, k1 across row.  (5 sts.)
Row 80:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 81:  Slip 1 knitwise, k1, psso; k1; p2tog.  (3 sts.)

Work tie to correspond with the one you worked for the other side.

Weave in ends.

Billy the Kid Cloth

Copyright 2011 by Elaine Fitzpatrick. Permission is granted to make and sell items from this pattern provided that credit is given to me as the designer.  Permission is not granted to reproduce the actual pattern, or post it, or distribute it, without my express permission.  Please respect my copyright and play nice!

Size:  approximately 8" X 8 ¼ ".

Materials:  One skein of worsted weight cotton in a solid color.  The cloth pictured was done in Peaches & Crème in Baby Blue.

Needles:  U.S. Size 6/4.0mm or 5/3.75mm  Because this is a “picture” cloth, you want your fabric to be fairly dense so the design will pop out.  If you are a loose knitter, then you might want to drop down a needle size.

Gauge:  4.5 sts. per inch, not critical. 

Abbreviations:
k = knit
p = purl
sts. = stitches

Pattern:  Cast on 37 sts. 

Rows 1 – 7:  k1, p1 across row.
Row 8:  (wrong side) (k1, p1) x4; k1; p14; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 9:  (k1, p1) x4; k5; p1; k15; (p1, k1) x4.
Row 10:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p16; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 11:  (k1, p1) x3; k7; p1; k17; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 12:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p18; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 13:   (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k7; p2; k10; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 14:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p8; k1; p1; k1; p7; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 15:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k6; p1; k1; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 16:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p2; k1; p6; k1; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 17:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; p1; k5; p1; k1; p6; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 18:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p6; k2; p5; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 19:  (k1, p1) x2; k12; (p1, k4) x2; p1; k2; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 20:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p8; k1; p3; k1; p11; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 21:  (k1, p1) x2; k13; p3; k8; p1; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 22:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 23:  (k1, p1) x2; k23; p1; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 24:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p18; k4; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 25:  (k1, p1) x2; k4; p1; k16; p1; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 26:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k1; p15; k1; p4; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 27:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k13; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 28:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p13; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 29:  (k1, p1) x2; k7; p1; k12; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 30:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; k1; p12; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 31:  (k1, p1) x2; k8; p1; k11; p3; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 32:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p4; k1; p2; (k1, p4) x2; k2; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 33:  (k1, p1) x2; (k8, p1, k2, p1) x2; k5; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 34:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; (p3, k1) x2; p8; k1; p3; k1; p6; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 35:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k4; p1; k8; p1; k4; p1; k3; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 36:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k1; p4; k1; p8; k1; p4; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 37:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p1; k4; p1; k7; p1; k1; (p1, k3) x2; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 38:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p2; k4; p3; k1; p6; k2; p3; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 39:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; (p1, k2) x2; p6; k1; p1; k9; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 40:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; (k1, p2) x4; k1; p1; k1; p5; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 41:  (k1, p1) x2; k6; p2; k3; (p1, k2) x3; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 42:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; (k1, p2) x3; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 43:  (k1, p1) x2; k11; (p1, k2) x3; p1; k8; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 44:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p7; (k1, p2) x3; k1; p10; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 45:  (k1, p1) x2; k10; p1; k2; p1; k3; p1; k2; p2; k7; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 46:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p5; k1; p4; (k1, p3) x2; k1; p8; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 47:  (k1, p1) x2; k9; p1; k2; p1; k5; p1; k3; p1; k6; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 48:  (k1, p1) x2; k1; p6; k3; p7; k2; p9; k1; (p1, k1) x2.
Row 49:  (k1, p1) x3; k25; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 50:  (k1, p1) x3; k1; p23; k1; (p1, k1) x3.
Row 51:  (k1, p1) x4; k21; (p1, k1) x4.
Rows 52 - 58:  k1, p1 across row.
Bind off in k1, p1 and weave in ends.